Eating at Ntounias: A One-of-a-Kind Food Experience in Crete

Prior to visiting Crete, I had absolute confidence that Cretan food would be great. When we first traveled to Athens a few years ago, we were frequently told…”if you think this food is good, then you really should visit Crete where the food is even better.” And now, after having spent almost a month in Crete, I can confirm that this is true. Crete offers some of the best food we’ve eaten in all of our travels so far. And one of our very best food experiences in Crete was at a unique mountaintop taverna called Ntounias.

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Farm to Table Fame

Ntounias is considered one of the premier farm-to-table restaurants in all of Crete. The restaurant is located adjacent to chef Stelios Trilyrakis’ own farm near Chania in western Crete. All the ingredients used on the Ntounias menu are sourced either directly from this farm or from other local producers nearby. They make their own wine, produce their own olive oil, and make their own cheese. They even raise their own cattle (an ancient breed indigenous to Crete).

But what makes eating at Ntounias a one-of-a-kind experience is the way Stelios cooks his food. You won’t find any gas or electric stoves at Ntounias. All the food here is cooked with wood fire. The ovens and stoves are wood-burning. And even more impressively, Stelios cooks many of his dishes outdoors in clay pots – an ancient Cretan tradition that dates back millennia.

Once I discovered the existence of Ntounias, eating there was a no-brainer for me.

How To Get To Ntounias

Ntounias is located in the mountains above Chania – Crete’s second largest city. The farm is situated on the outskirts of a tiny village named Drakona. Consequently, you will not find any public transportation options for getting to Ntounias.

The only way to get to there is via private vehicle. The distance from central Chania to Ntounias is about 14 miles (22 km). It’s a beautiful drive along narrow winding roads, and takes approximately 35-40 minutes.

Since we’d rented a car for a portion of our time in Chania, we drove ourselves to Ntounias. And I do strongly recommend that you also consider renting a car when visiting Crete. It’s really quite inexpensive compared to most other places we’ve visited. And I think it’s essential for seeing all the amazing out-of-the-way places in Crete…places like Ntounias. (I will be writing a blog post soon with my tips for renting a car and driving in Crete.)

I suppose you could also hire a taxi for your transport up to the taverna. And I’m quite confident that the staff would be happy to call a taxi for your return. Though I’m also confident that your round trip would well exceed the cost of a one day car rental.

A Beautiful Drive…Plus Animals

Given that we were driving ourselves, we turned our lunch at Ntounias into a day trip of sorts. The hills, valleys, and mountains above Chania are gorgeous and there is plenty to explore.

Just the drive alone is a worthwhile event. Google Maps will show you two different routes from Chania to Ntounias and both are very scenic. I would recommend you drive the loop – up one way and back the other (where you could consider stopping at a winery)

On our way up to Ntounias, we took the slightly longer route through a narrow mountain gorge named Therisos Gorge. The road through here threads its way through towering cliffs and mountain greenery.

Upon entering the Gorge, we almost immediately came upon goats in the road.

These weren’t wild goats. They were part of a larger herd that we subsequently discovered on the steep mountainside. Goats are an essential part of Cretan cuisine…goat’s milk for many different types of Cretan cheese, and then the meat too.

We also came across several other road-blocking herds over the course of our drive to Ntounias and back. Each necessitated a stop and a wait. Which didn’t bother us at all. Though we did get a lengthy staredown from a cow at one point…..

A Quick Stop in Theriso

On the other side of Theriso Gorge is the small town of Theriso. It’s located in the center of a small mountain valley and is well worth a quick stop.

As you can see in the photo above, Theriso is tiny and it didn’t take us long to wander around. We visit in early April, and the flowers were just starting to bloom. A stream runs through the center of the town. And with all the surrounding mountain peaks, it really is a beautiful place.

A centerpiece of the town is its centuries-old Greek Orthodox Church of the Panagia…

And this small town also has two historical museums. Theriso actually played an important role in two different revolutions, due to its strategic location on the opposite side of a narrow gorge. So it only seems natural that one of these museums celebrates Crete’s revolutionary spirit with artifacts from the island’s WW2 resistance movement (Crete was occupied by Germany). It’s called the Museum of National Resistance 1941-1945. It has very limited hours and we didn’t enter, but you can still admire some of the WW2 weaponry on display outside.

Arriving At Ntounias

After our brief stop in Theriso, the road took us even higher (and across several small peaks) to our ultimate destination. After 15 minutes of switchback driving, we arrived at the signpost announcing our arrival at the town limits of Drakona. And in the distance we could see Stelio’s farm and taverna. Ntounias!

The farm consists of a few houses (including an Airbnb-type rental), the taverna, and surrounding farmland. We found a few parking spots out front (most visitors simply park along the road), some scattered outdoor dining tables, and a couple dogs enjoying a midday nap.

But the focal point for those first arriving at Ntounias is certainly the outdoor cooking station – situated directly in front of the taverna. And as soon as we exited our car, Stelios warmly welcomed us as he tended to the day’s various offerings.

And it is such a unique cooking station! Individual wood fires, lit underneath different clay pots, each bubbling with traditional Cretan dishes. Chef Stelios regularly attending to all of them. With all the smells wafting through the mountain air. So very cool!

Al Fresco Perfection

Stelios invited us to find a seat. And while we could have chosen to go into the taverna’s main indoor dining area (which was a temptation given that two musicians were playing traditional music in the corner)….

We were instead drawn to the dining gazebo immediately across the road….

We will almost always choose to dine outside if given the chance. And with views like these – out across the hills and valleys below – eating here was a given. Even on this somewhat cold day in early April. It really was the perfect place to savor all the farm-fresh food we were served.

An Impromptu Kitchen Tour

Shortly after we sat, our excellent and entertaining server named Stavros greeted us. As he guided us through the menu, I told him that I was very excited to try the homemade bread that I’d read was cooked on site by wood fire. At which point he simply said – “Come with me”. And we followed him past the clay pot station, through the front of the restaurant, and back into the kitchen.

Here, he showed us the wood-fire oven where the bread is cooked. And also the adjacent wood-fire stoves, where more food was bubbling in pans. And with a sweep of his hand, confirmed for us that absolutely everything at Ntounias is cooked by wood-fire.

Our Lunch at Ntounias

Naturally, I wanted to try everything on the menu. And of course, this wasn’t realistic. So we asked Stavros to help guide us towards some of the “can’t miss” choices. Here’s a look at everything we ate at Ntounias.

First, Homemade Organic Bread cooked in the wood-fire oven along with Ntounias’ own Olive Oil. Crete is renowned for its olive oil and we tasted lots during our time on the island. Plus, we paid specific visits to two different olive oil farms. However, this was my favorite olive oil from our entire trip. We sopped up every last drop. Also you might notice the glass of wine in the photo. This is their Homemade Red Wine which was light and tasted of raisins.

Second, Stuffed Cabbage Leaves. I spotted these cooking in the kitchen during our impromptu tour. They looked so good that I definitely needed to try them. They were served with homemade yogurt. Superb!

Third, Stavros suggested what he called the Village Salad. A large bowl filled with all kinds of fresh vegetables and topped with homemade Myzithra Cheese. We also ordered some of Ntounias’ famed fried pototoes. These are fried in olive oil over the wood fire which adds a whole different layer of flavor.

Next, Goat with Roasted Potatoes. Stavros told me this was his favorite dish. And though I’ve always steered clear of goat on menus (I’d always heard that it could be quite gamey), I decided that I couldn’t visit Ntounias without trying one of their best dishes. Plus, it’s the dish I first saw Stelios stirring within its clay pot upon our arrival. A sign I couldn’t ignore.

And it was delicious! Not gamey at all. And so very tender. (Newly goat-confident, I ordered goat later in the trip as well. And again, really liked it.)

Also, Mrs. TTs main of Pork with Orange Sauce and Mashed Potatoes. Again, the meat was tender and delicious. And the orange sauce added a brightness not typical with most pork and mashed potato dishes

And then finally, as is traditional in most Crete tavernas, Stavros brought us complimentary dessert (chocolate cake), plus more of the homemade wine (on the house). And he shared a drink with us – as a final gesture of Cretan hospitality.

What a great meal and what a great experience! And the cost for all that food and drink? Only 60 Euro!

Other Experiences at Ntounias

If you look at the Ntounias website, you’ll see that Stelios has named his entire venture the Ntounias Educational Farm. Ntounias is clearly much more than just a restaurant.

You can make arrangements via the website for a tour of the farm, which includes some hands-on agricultural experiences.

Cooking Classes are also held at Ntounias. These are offered by an independent company called Do It Like A Cretan. This experience also includes a tour of the farm. I do love taking cooking classes when we travel (like this cooking class in Cartagena Colombia), but wasn’t aware of this opportunity until after we’d arrived. Oh well, maybe next time!

And as I mentioned earlier, you can even stay overnight at Ntounias in their on-site apartment. I don’t think you’d want to base your entire Crete itinerary from here, given its relative isolation. But I think it would be an amazing rural Crete experience for a night or two. Here’s that link again to the House of Ntounias.

Final Thoughts

Chef Stelios is clearly very passionate about providing an unforgettable food experience at Ntounias. From the fresh organic ingredients to the ancient cooking methods, and from the mountain farm setting to the Cretan hospitality – ours was unquestionably a meal that we will never forget. Be sure to add a visit to Ntounias to your own Crete itinerary!

If you would some more Crete travel tips, then be sure to check out these posts:

Heraklion or Chania – Which City in Crete is Better?

Chania to Heraklion by Bus – Everything You Need to Know

And if you would like to read about some of our other food experiences from around the world then check out these posts:

Eating Bifanas in Lisbon – Just Like My Travel Hero

Typical Food in Merida Mexico You Won’t Want To Miss