Coyoacan, Mexico City – 6 Things You Shouldn’t Miss
If you are visiting Mexico City, and need an escape from its hustle and bustle, then you should head straight to Coyoacan. The quiet, colonial charm of this Mexico City neighborhood makes it a popular destination for day-trippers. Well, that and the Frida Kahlo museum. I visited Coyoacan twice during my own stay in Mexico City, and discovered plenty of worthwhile sites. Here’s a look at the top 6 things you shouldn’t miss when visiting Coyoacan, Mexico City.
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Contents
First, A Little Bit of History
Coyoacan, Mexico City was founded in the early 1500s by none other than Hernán Cortéz himself. It was the first capital city of New Spain and was the Spanish headquarters during their conquest of the Aztecs. Ultimately the Spanish moved their capitol building on top of the Aztec city of Tenochtitlan – in what is now the very center of modern day Mexico City. But Coyoacan still continued to exist as an important Spanish colonial city.
With time, the urban sprawl of Mexico City eventually enveloped this colonial enclave and it is now one of the city’s 16 boroughs. But over the centuries, it still has managed to maintain much of its original character. When you visit you will find colonial architecture and plazas, cobblestone streets, and a quiet that is often hard to find in central Mexico City.
But that’s not to say that Coyoacan, Mexico City is boring. You’ll also find a somewhat touristy town center with lots of restaurants, shops, and even street performers. Coyoacan is not only popular with tourists. It’s also a very popular weekend destination for Mexico City residents too.
Getting To Coyoacan
Coyoacan, Mexico City is located about 7-8 miles south of the city center. I think the easiest way to get to Coyoacan is via Uber. We used Uber for most of our transportation around Mexico City. It was safe, convenient, and fairly inexpensive.
But, even though the distance to Coyoacan is relatively short, Mexico traffic is crazy. Plan on a 30-45 minute drive from the city center, depending on time of day. The cost of our Uber ride to Coyoacan was around 15 USD using Uber Comfort. (I have a blog post dedicated specifically to using Uber in Mexico City for more detailed information. I also explain why I generally used Uber Comfort for longer distances.)
Alternatively, you could use public transportation to get to Coyoacan. We did use the Metro from time to time during our stay in Mexico City, and it’s very inexpensive and easy to use. However, there isn’t a Metro stop in the center of Coyoacan. So the journey also requires either a bus transfer or a 20 minute walk. Uber is a lot easier.
Visit A Frida Kahlo Museum
Let’s now start talking about those 6 things you shouldn’t miss when visiting Coyoacan, Mexico City. And I’ll start with one of the most popular tourist attractions in all of Mexico City – the Frida Kahlo Museum. Frida Kahlo is certainly Mexico’s most famous artist and has become an internationally-recognized cultural icon. No matter where we travel in the world, we see merchandise bearing her image. It should therefore come as no surprise that tourist flock to the Frida Kahlo Museum in Coyoacan.
Frida Kahlo was born in Coyoacan, Mexico City. And the house in which she was born, raised, and died is called the Blue House (pictured above). It is now home to this popular museum. However, notice that I titled this section “visit a Frida Kahlo museum”. That’s because you can also opt for a second museum in Coyoacan called the Museo Casa Kahlo.
You’ll find this second Frida museum in a house located only a few blocks from the Blue House. This particular house was also owned by her family, and Frida spent a significant amount of time here too. However, unlike the Frida Kahlo Museum, this museum is actually operated by her family. And so it offers a more personal glimpse into her life. (You should be aware that neither museum displays any of her significant works of art.)
During our time in Coyoacan, we opted to visit the Museo Casa Kahlo. I’d read a lot of reviews online stating that the Blue House was overrated and underwhelming. I talked with other travelers during my time in Mexico City who thought the same thing. It is also very crowded, expensive, and you usually need to book tickets on its website weeks in advance.
But we did conclude that the Museo Casa Kahlo was very much worth it. We had no problem getting tickets (I booked them one day ahead). The hour-long tour is guided. It teaches you about her family, her upbringing, and the many difficulties she faced. You’ll see lots of her personal items. And you’ll also get a general glimpse into what life in Coyoacan was like during the early 20th century.
We left the Museo Casa Kahlo with a much better understanding of all the forces that shaped Frida Kahlo’s art and her fame. For us, she is now much more than a famous image in a souvenir shop.
Explore The Coyoacan Market
Another must-do in Coyoacan Mexico City is taking time to explore the various passageways inside the Coyoacan Market. This large central market is located within just a few blocks of both Frida museums, so it won’t be difficult to make your way there.
I visited several markets during our time in Mexico City, and the Coyoacan market was my favorite. It is a labyrinth of fresh produce, butcher and seafood kiosks, and a wide variety of other goods. Exploring busy local markets like this is always a highlight for me – no matter where we travel. I love getting a peek at this always-important aspect of local culture.
The Coyoacan Market is also an extremely popular lunchtime choice for both locals and tourists alike. So you may want to time your market visit accordingly. You’ll find all kinds of small kitchens inside the market, offering a wide variety of local cuisine. We had a lunch reservation at a restaurant during our visit to Coyoacan, but I would have had no problem whatsoever eating at the market instead.
In fact, I almost sat down at one of the market’s popular tostada counters anyway. But ultimately, I decided to ensure enough space for the large plate of Enmoladas I knew were awaiting me at the restaurant (and are featured in my post on The Traditional Food of Mexico City.)
I also noticed quite a few different Food Tours taking place as we wandered the Coyoacan Market. So if you want a guided food experience, then here are a couple options on Viator:
See One Of Mexico City’s Oldest Churches
The Parish of San Juan Bautista sits in the very center of historic Coyoacan, Mexico City. It is one of the three very oldest churches in Mexico City, with its construction having started in 1520. A church of such distinction is certainly worthy of a stop! And its central location – situated directly in between Coyoacan’s two main plazas – makes for an easy visit.
Its exterior isn’t quite as striking as other churches that we’ve seen in Mexico from the same time period (like the majestic Cathedral in Merida), but the interior is richly decorated. It’s definitely worth the free cost of admission to step in and look around
Wander the Streets & Plazas
Coyoacan, Mexico City is the type of place that begs you to simply wander. So strolling through its various streets and plazas is something you also shouldn’t miss. The historic center of Coyoacan isn’t very big. You can easily explore much of it in a short amount of time. And in a place like this, you’ll certainly stumble across plenty of cool stuff.
Like the art fair we found in the park (called Jardín del Arte Allende) across from the Coyoacan Market….
Or the chess tables set up in the shady Jardín Centenario (one of the town’s main plazas next to the church)…
Or the wedding taking place at the Coyoacan Town Hall where Frida Kahlo and her muralist husband Diego Rivera were married…
And as you walk through the shady streets of town, you will find regular reminders that Coyoacan is Frida’s hometown….
Visit The Leon Trotsky House Museum
But Frida and Diego weren’t the only famous Coyoacan Mexico City residents. A famed anti-Stalinist Russian revolutionary from the early 20th century lived here too. His name was Leon Trotsky. And visiting his former home is another Coyoacan must-do.
Leon Trotsky was one of the key figures in the Russian revolution. After Vladimir Lenin died, Trotsky lost out in the subsequent power struggle with Stalin and ultimately moved to Coyoacan in exile – at the suggestion of Frida and Diego (both were members of Mexico’s Communist Party).
His former home is now a museum and is very interesting place to visit. Because multiple assassination attempts were carried out against Trotsky in Coyoacan by agents of Stalin, the house is actually built like a fortress. Yet it surrounds a very peaceful central courtyard.
Ultimately, one of Stalin’s agents did succeed in killing Trotsky with an icepick as he sat at his desk. While you tour the house, you can visit the room where it happened and stand beside the actual desk.
The museum is also full of artifacts and displays that give you further insight into this very interesting part of Coyoacan’s history. And Trotsky’s grave is on the site too.
The Trotsky Museum is located only a few blocks from Frida’s Blue House, and so it fits nicely into any Coyoacan Mexico City itinerary. I’ve seen many reviews where visitors actually rate it higher than the Frida Kahlo Museum. Because I toured the other Frida museum, I can’t say for sure. But I absolutely think this museum is worthwhile. And it’s an easy visit. No reservation is necessary.
Check Out the UNAM Campus
The main campus of the National Autonomous University of Mexico (UNAM) is also located in Coyoacan, Mexico City. And while it isn’t located in Coyoacan’s historic center, making your way over to the campus is definitely worth your while. This campus in Coyoacan is actually a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is so-recognized because of its architecture and murals – including its famous Central Library building.
I made a second trip to Coyoacan to visit the campus, and took a guided tour of the main sites. But if you would prefer to include a visit to UNAM within a single-day Coyoacan itinerary, you could easily get to the campus from the Coyoacan Market in about 20 minutes via Uber.
The Biblioteca or Central Library is one of Mexico City’s most celebrated buildings. It is covered in a mosaic mural on all four sides. This massive mural tells the story of Mexico – from pre-Hispanic to modern times. It’s a very unique experience to stand below this building and examine all the detail. And it is even more meaningful to do it with a guide (here’s a link to the tour I took.)
But if you don’t have the time for a guided tour, you are free to wander around the campus and check out some of the other important structures, such as the University Olympic Stadium. This stadium was used for the 1968 Summer Olympics and is located directly across the street from the Library. It’s also famous for its stone mosaic mural by Diego Rivera that includes a depiction of athletes lighting the Olympic flame. And the Olympic cauldron sits directly above the mural.
Another cool building is the Modernist-style administration building for the University – called the Rectory Tower. It’s adjacent to the library and features three different exterior murals by another famous Mexican muralist named David Alfaro Siqueiros (who interestingly was also one of the unsuccessful assassins who tried to kill Trotsky.)
So if you are interested in art and architecture, then a visit to the UNAM campus should certainly be high on your list of things to do in Coyoacan, Mexico City.
Is Coyoacan a Good Place To Stay?
You may now be wondering if Coyoacan might be a good place to base your entire stay in Mexico City. After all, it is a very charming place with some great sites and an outstanding market. And you can find plenty of Airbnb options and boutique hotels in Coyoacan. It’s also one of the safest places to stay in the city.
However, in my opinion, it is too far from the center of Mexico City. You will find so much to do in central Mexico City, not to mention Teotihuacan and its Pyramids to the north (another must-visit!) I think the time and traffic hassle required to move back and forth from Coyoacan would be annoying.
But you could consider splitting your lodging between central Mexico City and Coyoacan. I did consider that option prior to our trip. And in retrospect, I think I would have definitely enjoyed a few full days and evenings in this charming colonial neighborhood.
Final Thoughts
Regardless of where you choose to stay during your time in Mexico City, make sure you at least spend a day visiting Coyoacan. As you can see, Coyoacan Mexico City offers some great sites and activities that should not be missed!
If you would like to read more about traveling in Mexico City, then be sure to check out these posts:
The 10 Most Essential Things To Do In Mexico City
Tips For a Perfect Day Trip From Mexico City To Teotihuacan
A Quest To Find The Best Tacos in Mexico City
And if Puebla is in your itinerary (after all, it’s only two hours away from Mexico City), then check out these posts: